ENGLISH BULLDOG PUPPIES
ONTARIO BREEDERS OF ENGLISH BULLDOGS
A bulldog should be fed in a ceramic or stainless steel bowl so that the bowl can be cleaned daily. It
should be flat sided and flat on the bottom. My bulldog puppies often like to tip it over and walk all
over their food which can be expensive and annoying plus it contaminates their food.
Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy three to times a day. Some add cottage cheese
and/or yogurt. One the puppy is three months old I add yogurt to their diet, once a week about a
tablespoon. Good for their coats I am careful not to give them human food until they are six months old.
Do not feed your Bulldog a kibble which contains soybeans and only my opinion...never feed Royal Canin
dog food.
Pure pumpkin is a dog's best friend. If they have the poops take their food away and give them pure
pumpkin for a day and it should clear up. When you take your puppy home mix a tablespoon of pumpkin
in with their food every feeding.
You should feed the puppy on a set schedule in order to help you out with the house training.
Feed the puppy according the recommended amount on the bag per day and divide it into three or four
feedings. At about six months this number can be reduced to two.
How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the dog's but I prefer to
feed my dogs twice a day as opposed to one. This helps to stop them from gulping down their feed.
A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until he is six months to one year old.
**Do not allow your bulldog to become overweight as
it can be very hard on the joints.***
If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you may need to start
feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming too fat. Most good brands of dog food
have such a kibble. Again, it's best if you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and change to the
"lo-fat" version.
Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times.
It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. But you may find your dog prefers "goodies" on his food,
or does a little better with some. The most common supplements are cottage cheese and Yogurt.
Cottage cheese is especially good for growing puppies since the Bulldog must grow a lot of heavy
bone in a short time. About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the digestive system working
well,
I do not give any of my dogs, dog biscuits. I boil up pieces of chicken, cube them and keep them in the
fridge... It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, crackers, ice
cream, etc. etc. again, when he is older, but do not give him chocolate or onions.
Some people are turning to making their own food. Don't blame them with the dog food scare, it has
made us change food as well but you would need to know exactly what you are doing so you don't make
your dog sick instead of helping it.
Training
"House" training
The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as
he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, just before his
nap or night bedtime. My friend has a great idea. They did not want "Yuckies" all over their yard so they
purchased a small kiddie pool and filled it with sand. They then took the puppy to the pool each time to
the washroom and not that is the only place that the dog goes while out in the yard.
The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always over praise the
puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their
beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup
"hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating in
the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once. Do not scold him unless you catch him in the
act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember,
a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will
succeed in training him to go outside not inside.
Lead training
The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead training before you get him, wait a
week or so until he's settled comfortably into his new home before you begin.
You will need a light weight collar. The collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and
have some room for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of his
neck. Put the collar on the puppy so that it goes over his neck from his left to right. Fasten the lead to the
collar and let the puppy lead you around. If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you.
Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for the
puppy so give him lots of praise. As he becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin
to give little tugs and encourage him to follow you rather than you following him. Always keep him on
your left side. Keep his lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one half
hour session. Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise him often when he follows you.
Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks around the neighborhood
but not until his vaccinations are in order as there are nasty viruses out there that could make your puppy
very ill or even kill them. You will probably need to give him several gently tugs the first few times to keep
him with you rather than exploring on his own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again,
do not pull on the lead and drag or choke him. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the
way to control him. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when he does it
right, a quick jerk and release to correct when he doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he
will soon be walking nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him
to stand still and let you hold
his head. Start this training along with the lead
training as early as possible.
Toys
Never ever give your Bulldog a rawhide toy. Even Bulldog puppies can tear a piece off the rawhide and
choke on it.
Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. They also like Nylabone and Gummabone
toys. Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball is too big to lodge in the throat. They like cotton tug
toys.. . The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an adult Bulldog is size. The
puppy gels a fairly small Gummabone, (he adult gets a big one. Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow.
Throw a Nyla or Gummabone etc. away before it gets so small the dog can get the entire piece in its
mouth.
Our dogs love water bottles without the lid. They throw them all over the house. The only problem with this
is that they will sit and wait in front of a person and whine as soon as they see someone with a
water bottle. They think that it is theirs.
Grooming
You need to realize that a bulldog sheds. Your Bulldog should be thoroughly brushed at least
three times a week. Most Bulldogs love to be brushed. Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at
the rear and brush against the hair. After you've brushed the entire dog against the grain, brush it with
the grain. Follow this with a good rub down. This will keep his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During
shedding time, spring and fall, you may need to brush more often, give more frequent rubdowns. The idea
is to remove the dead hair and distribute the natural oils.
Bathing
A Bulldog that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent bathing. Most people
bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it obviously needs a bath.
Where do you bathe a Bulldog? Any place you want to and can! Some Bulldoggers have a big deep sink,
some use the bath tub, some use the kitchen sink, in the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. You
need a place where you can control the dog, where you can easily control the water supply and where you
can rinse the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy, to take the dog outside to
"do his thing" just before you bathe him.
Gather up all the things you will need before you start. You will need: shampoo, any rinses you plan to
use, cotton balls, Q-lips, eye ointment or mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. You will want a mild,
no tears shampoo.
Place a cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet the dog. Wet the dog thoroughly from just behind
the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and
sides. Apply the shampoo starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you
get all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay special attention to his paws (wash between the
toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital area. On a girl, be especially careful to clean
the vulva. Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. Put some shampoo on the
washcloth and wash the dog's face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, around the
nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out. Now rinse. Rinse until you are
sure every bit of the dog, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed and there is no
shampoo any place. If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. You can use a mild
human conditioner on the dog as well...
Dry the dog with towels and then use a hair dryer or let him air dry. Take the cotton balls out of the dog's
ears and carefully clean any wax using a dry Q-Tip or one with a dab of Panalog. Rub Vaseline onto his
nose to help keep ii soft. Keep the dog inside until it is completely dry - about two hours.
Nails
Most Bulldogs need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two weeks. The nails should be
kept as short as possible. You may use dog nail clippers or an electric grinder. Most people use the
clippers, either guillotine or scissors type. Which type you use is up to you, but they should be sharp. When
the blade begins to dull, replace it or buy new clippers - dull blades can be painful to the dog.
Each person seems to have a different way to clip nails. Find the way that works best for you. The
important thing is to be able to control the dog so that you do not hurt it. You can put the dog on the floor
and scratch its tummy, or hold it between your legs -whatever works. Be especially careful not to cut into
the quick. On white nails you can see where the quick begins. On black nails cut just to the curve of the
nail. The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them off. If you use en
electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind into the quick.
My husband and I use a grinder and we find that this works very well....The main thing is to make the
experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into
the quick. If you dog takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, so
again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. This is especially true of black nails which
seem to wear more than the white ones.
Wrinkles
Bulldogs tend to have messy face wrinkles. The older they get, the messier the wrinkles. How often you
clean these wrinkles depends on the dog. Some do very well if you clean the wrinkles a couple of times a
week. Some need it on a daily basis. When you clean the wrinkles, wash his nose and apply a good
rub of Vaseline to keep it soft. It's better to clean more often than you think you need to than not often
enough. You can clean the wrinkles with a soft, damp cloth and then dry. Or you can wash them using the
shampoo you use to bathe the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly. One of the best ways
is to wipe the wrinkles clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Whatever method you use, be sure
to get the deep nose wrinkle clean. You may need to put a soothing ointment in the deep nose wrinkle. If it
is irritated Panalog will help to heal. Penaten Cream will soothe and dry the wrinkle. If the wrinkle is sore
looking Poly Sporin works well. A sizable number of Bulldogs have "tear stains" of varying degrees of color.
If the stain is bad, in addition to cleaning you may want to try to remove the stain.
TEAR STAINS IN THEIR EYES.....
*****A client of mine recently found a product that is a miracle worker for tear stains and I am trying it...It is
a powder that you just sprinkle on their food and works wonders...
It is expensive but it works...The product is called Angel Eyes and you can order it from the United States
http://www.angelseyesonline.com
Also someone told me this works but I have not tried it
* 2 tsp Milk Of Magnesia (white)
* 3 tsp Peroxide (Human Hair Type - 20 volume)
* 1 tsp Corn Starch
Add all the ingredients above and mix well. If you want to make the paste thicker, just add a little more
corn starch but be careful not to use too much that you turn the remedy into a powder. Only make
enough for one application. Clean and dry the stained area and apply this paste to the tear stains
using a clean cotton swab or Q tip and avoid getting it into the dog’s eyes - let dry overnight. Wash off the
paste and condition the area - dry with cloth. Lastly, apply a thin coat of one of the following: Desitin,
Boric Acid Ointment or Bag Balm to prevent a possible rash. Repeat this process every day until the
stains are gone. It is recommended that if the stains don’t disappear by the second application; take a 1
day break before starting treatment again. This is just to give your dog a break. Once the tear stains are
removed you can limit the number of treatments down to once a week depending on how fast the tear
stains may return.
Fleas
The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva and can develop really
serious skin problems so try to keep the flea population to a minimum. Advantage or Revolution is
are two good solutions--ask your vet...
Bedding
The most common is cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. Don't pamper your Bulldog
with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy reducing it to twigs and it really isn't a good thing for
him to eat. The fake sheepskin rugs available from most pet stores and dog catalogues make good
beds as they are soft and wash and dry with ease. The important thing for bedding is that it be easily
washable and provide a soft nesting area for the dog. As long as it meets that requirement, any bedding
will do. I bought the big dog beds with the stuffing in them and when I came home the stuffing was out of
the mand all over my floor so you decide.
Heat Stroke/exhaustion in Bulldogs
Heat Stroke
Every dog is a potential victim of heat exhaustion, but the shorter breathing system of the English Bulldog
is what puts them at such very strong risk for heat stroke. Shorter airway-less possibility of cooling the
air which the dogs draws into its body. Dogs do not sweat. Their only means of reducing built-up body
heat is by panting. The leading cause of heat exhaustion, and its advancing into heat stroke; is leaving a
dog in a hot car. Even on a mild day (75-80 degrees F), the temperature inside a car can raise up to 130
degrees rather quickly. Leaving a window slightly open will not prevent heat build-up. Leaving a dog in
a car on a warm day is a risk to the dog's life.
There are many variables in triggering a dog to experience heat exhaustion; the dog's physical condition,
its age, its coat length, its breed, and its climatization to heat. An older, couch-potato, "snuggle the air
conditioner" dog will have less tolerance to the heat than a young, romp outside all day, adolescent. Both
the very young and very old dogs are among the highest risk categories. All Bullies, no matter how well
they breathe, or how active they are, they could be at risk for Heat Stroke.
Identifying Heat Stroke and Heat Exhaustion
The first signs of heat exhaustion:
a) Excessive panting
b) The skin on the inside of the ears becomes flushed and red.
Heat Exhaustion can progress in to Heat Stroke, as
indicated by :
a) Weakness
b) Staggering
c) Fainting - loss of consciousness
Heat stroke is an emergency situation. If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, you must cool him down
as rapidly as possible. Don't wait for veterinary treatment. Heat Stroke is an Emergency - Treat the
dog NOW!
Emergency Heat Stroke Treatment
DO NOT try to force your dog to drink. His swelling airways can cause any liquid he takes in to be
regurgitated and possibly aspirated into his lungs. Hose the dog down with cool water - not cold.
Apply an ice pack to the dog's head, and soaked towels or any other form of fabric to their body.
If at all possible, get him into a tub of cool water --again, cool - not cold! However, in an extreme
emergency if cold is all there is, use it. If none of this is working, a cool water enema can help to cool the
dog internally. Be careful not to induce too rapidly, or with water cooler than a few degrees below body
temp, or you can put your dog into serious shock. As your dog is panting, his airways are swelling,
causing him to pant harder yet again. You need to break this cycle. Children's allergy treatment
Benadryl can be administered by mouth from a dropper. Consult your vet in advance, or by phone is
necessary, for exact dosage. Better still is to obtain a supply of injectible Benadryl to keep on hand.
Do not stop treatment until your dog's body temperature is approaching normal.
As soon as the dog's internal temperature has stabilized at a near normal level transport the dog to
your vet. Heat stroke can leave permanent damage.
Many dogs will play until they drop. You must supervise the games, and determine when it is time
to stop. During hot weather limit your dog's time outside. Be sure that there is a shaded area for your
dog to rest in and that your dog has a constant supply of clean water.
Never, EVER underestimate your dog's susceptibility to heat stroke. Limit their exposure to temperatures
which you might personally find only mildly hot, be conscious of your dog's proximity to hot pavement,
NEVER leave your Bully in a locked car in even warm weather, and always allow them lots of access to
fresh water, shade, and cool areas to escape from heat. Be alert, and be prepared with the things you
need to save your dog's life.
A checklist for summer living with English Bulldogs
- children's liquid benadryl
- bottled water
- clean enema bag
- clean towels to soak in water
- cooling pads &/or cool coats (any good pet supply store will sell these
- access to shade
- your vet's phone number, and the number of the nearest 24 hour emergency vet
Most of all, always make sure your dog has access to a cool shaded area, and NEVER leave them in the
car, even in weather which is only fairly warm. English Bulldogs can over heat in an instant
Elongated Soft Palate
One of the most common forms of airway obstruction in Brachycephalic breeds is due to an elongated soft
palate. The soft palate is an extension of the hard palate which forms the roof of the mouth. The
purpose of the soft palate is to serve as a mobile flap preventing food and water from entering the nasal
passages during swallowing. A soft palate that is elongated will either hang in front of the airway or will
fall into the larynx during inhalation.
Dogs affected by chronic airway obstruction (CAO) tend to breathe rather noisily when excited. Mouth
breathing, snoring and snorting are characteristics of this condition. These characteristics become even
more pronounced when the dog is hot or during periods of exercise. The dogs frequently gag in an
attempt to clear their airway and occasionally bring up foam and saliva while eating or drinking. The
harder the dog breathes, the greater the swelling and elongation of the soft palate. Most often an
elongated soft palate is difficult to positively confirm other than while the dog is under general anesthesia,
surgical correction is usually done at the same time.
Stenotic Nares
Stenotic Nares (constricted nostrils) occurs exclusively in brachycephalic dogs. This birth defect
can not be overemphasized. The cartilages that help to shape the nostrils are too soft. As the pup
breathes in the nostril collapses restricting or shutting off the air flow. In severe cases the pup's chest
becomes flattened. There is a nasal discharge that can either appear as watery or foamy. Breathing is
labored and accompanied by snorting. When excited or active they tend to breathe through their mouths.
This excess labouring in order to bring oxygen to the lungs puts additional stress on their systems, and
with reduced air flow they tend not to thrive. These dog should be treated surgically as soon as possible.
Treatment normally consists of removing a portion of the nasal cartilage to enlarge the nostril openings.
Also do not let a vet with an overactive wish to treat this condition talk you into doing this unnecessarily.
Hot Spots
A "Hot Spot" is an area of bacterial skin infection that increases through self-mutilation by the dog. An
area of skin is irritated (flea bite, allergy or other irritant), the dog scratches or chews the area enlarging
the opening, the area becomes infected, thus begins the cycle. Hot spots are warm, swollen, painful
patches of skin that exude pus and serum, and tend to give off a foul odour. These areas can appear
suddenly, they tend to enlarge rapidly (especially in hot humid weather) and can reach a size of several
inches in diameter. Hair loss is rapid. Between the dog chewing or clawing the coat out and bacterial
spread the progress can be significant within a matter of hours. Hot spots most often appear on the neck,
ears, chest, rump, flanks, and back (areas of access to clawing or chewing).
Treat by clipping all remaining hair away from the infected area. This will allow air to dry the area and
promote healing. Gently cleanse the area with a surgical soap (pHisoHex, Oxydex, or Betadine).
Apply topical antibiotic-steroid cream such as Panalog to aid in reducing irritation and promote
healing. Dependent upon the extent of the hot spot the dog may need oral antibiotics and steroids as
well. The dog must be restrained from doing further damage to this area, this may necessitate the use of
an Elizabethan collar.
To end the cycle the underlying cause must be determined. In the event of fleas - the fleas must be
removed. In the event of allergies the irritant must be determined and eliminated to prevent hot spots from
occurring elsewhere. A word of warning - do NOT treat hot spots with tea tree oil! Tea Tree oil has been
known to cause neurological damage in canines and humans when applied in the undiluted form.
Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis is known by many names throughout the dog world. Among these names are:
canine atopic dermatitis, canine inhalant dermatitis, allergic inhalant dermatitis, atopic disease, and
inhalant allergy. This condition is a commonly occurring, inherited, hypersensitivity to pollens or
other environmental allergens, as a result of a disorder of the immune system.
The primary clinical indication is itching. This itching can take one or multiple forms, and is most often
exhibited by licking or chewing of the feet, and/or the groin area; rubbing and scratching the face, ears,
and front torso; rubbing sides or buttocks on furniture or any available object; and frequent periods of "sit
and spin" sessions. Additionally, affected dogs can display reversed sneezing, coat discoloration, crusty,
reddened eyes, reddening of the skin, papules, and hair loss.
This condition can vary greatly from region to region. Since the most common allergies are: dander,
pollens of grasses, weeds, and trees; dust and molds. The irritants can be seasonal. Found in both
males and females, this condition has a higher incidence in females. The most common age of
onset is between one and three years of age. It is alarmingly common in English Bulldogs, and its
origins are a mystery at this time. It has been theorized that hypothyroidism is at root of this
disorder, but thyroid testing of the dogs which we have had with this condition have been negative.
Perhaps there is some other, underlying immune suppression at work which are not yet equipped to
pin point or diagnose.
Idealistically, avoidance of the irritating substance would present the most desirable long-term means of
treatment. This can be achieved in some cases, but in most this is not a practical solution. Medically,
there are numerous treatments such as glucocorticoids and/or antihistamines. In some cases
hypo-sensitization is the best means of treatment. Do not put your English Bulldog on long term steroid
treatments, it could have devastating affects on the health of your dog.
Stinky Ears- or Otitis Externa
One thing I can promise you with a bully is that someday you are going to end up with a stinky or
infected ear. I am not sure why this happens but it does. This can be caused by parasites(ear Mites),
foreign bodies(dust and dirt) or direct trauma to the ear. If your dogs ear is red, irritated and swollen
looking and/or the dog is constantly shaking it’s head or scratching it‘s ear, you probably have an ear
problem. Your dog can have a change in attitude or suffer hearing loss if the infection is bad enough.
Excessive wrinkles tend to trap moisture and can inhibit draining causing a build up of bacteria,
excessive wax building which can eventually lead to infection.
Prevention is the best way to go if you can. I have found that a solution with half cider vinegar and half
rubbing alcohol has worked wonders to break down the PH in the ear and help to keep it clean. Rub on
with a cotton swab and make sure that you dry the dog’s ears very well afterwards. Also make sure that
the dogs ears are dried after giving it a bath
Treatment and Prevention
a) The use of an external ear canal cleanser. This makes the environment less favourable for bacteria
and yeasts to grow and often reduces inflammation.
b) A drying agent to reduce the amount of moisture in the canal.
c) Topical anti-inflammatory and anti bacterial treatment. This might be in the form of a liquid or
ointment that is placed directly into the ear canal and gently massaged so as to ensure that the deeper
areas are adequately medicated.
d) Topical antiparasitic or antifungal medications. May be used in cases of ear mite infestation or
ringworm infection (fungus).
e) Systemic treatment. This includes the use of injectable or oral medications e.g. cortisone and
antibiotics. These drugs often help to reduce the pain and inflammation rapidly, thereby improving the
comfort of the pet and allowing the owner to properly apply the topical medications.
f) Surgery. In advanced severe cases of otitis externa, surgery may be required to correct defects
in conformation of the ear canal and also to improve drainage and ventilation. As with all medical
problems, prevention is better than cure. Take the opportunity during your pet's next physical examination
to discuss with your veterinarian how and when to clean your dogs ears. If you notice an inflamed ear or a
bad odor, a visit to your veterinarian may save you and your pet a lot of aggravation and discomfort. Don't
allow "stinky ear syndrome" to become a permanent part of your dogs life!
Heartworm Disease
Does your dog cough frequently? Has he lost some weight recently? Just doesn't want to go running after
that tennis ball anymore? If so, he could have heartworm disease! Dirofilariasis or heartworm is a serious
and potentially fatal illness spread by mosquitoes. When a mosquito bites a dog to take a blood meal, it
may inject a number of tiny larvae into the animal's skin. Over a period of months, these larvae migrate
into the blood stream and gradually make their way to the heart and the adjacent arteries. Here they begin
to grow and can often reach lengths of twelve to eighteen inches! Sometimes dogs will have tens or even
hundreds of worms, all more than a foot long, clogging up the chambers of the heart.
At this stage, the blood cannot flow properly through the heart and the dog starts to show the typical signs
of congestive heart failure. To make things worse, the female worms produce thousands of offspring, which
can be found swimming in almost every drop of blood
in the dog's body. When the next mosquito bites the unfortunate animal, it will suck up some of these
juveniles and then fly off to find it's next victim...Make sure you put your Bulldog on a heartworm
preventative….
BULLDOGS AND CHILDREN
You must supervise your children with a baby bulldog. A bulldog can be rough and if a child hurts them,
they could learn to bite. Also a bully baby could be dropped and seriously injured--- there is nothing
worse than watching people allowing their children to pull on a dogs ears, crawl all over them etc... so use
your common sense. If you can't control your children, a dog is not for you.....
Teeth--Make sure that you take care of your dog's teeth. You can get them cleaned at the vet, brush your
dog's teeth daily or feed them hard bones to help. It is very important to their overall health.
Most important---Love your bulldog and treat him well and you will have many happy years with your best
friend.
should be flat sided and flat on the bottom. My bulldog puppies often like to tip it over and walk all
over their food which can be expensive and annoying plus it contaminates their food.
Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy three to times a day. Some add cottage cheese
and/or yogurt. One the puppy is three months old I add yogurt to their diet, once a week about a
tablespoon. Good for their coats I am careful not to give them human food until they are six months old.
Do not feed your Bulldog a kibble which contains soybeans and only my opinion...never feed Royal Canin
dog food.
Pure pumpkin is a dog's best friend. If they have the poops take their food away and give them pure
pumpkin for a day and it should clear up. When you take your puppy home mix a tablespoon of pumpkin
in with their food every feeding.
You should feed the puppy on a set schedule in order to help you out with the house training.
Feed the puppy according the recommended amount on the bag per day and divide it into three or four
feedings. At about six months this number can be reduced to two.
How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the dog's but I prefer to
feed my dogs twice a day as opposed to one. This helps to stop them from gulping down their feed.
A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until he is six months to one year old.
**Do not allow your bulldog to become overweight as
it can be very hard on the joints.***
If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you may need to start
feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming too fat. Most good brands of dog food
have such a kibble. Again, it's best if you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and change to the
"lo-fat" version.
Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times.
It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. But you may find your dog prefers "goodies" on his food,
or does a little better with some. The most common supplements are cottage cheese and Yogurt.
Cottage cheese is especially good for growing puppies since the Bulldog must grow a lot of heavy
bone in a short time. About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the digestive system working
well,
I do not give any of my dogs, dog biscuits. I boil up pieces of chicken, cube them and keep them in the
fridge... It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, crackers, ice
cream, etc. etc. again, when he is older, but do not give him chocolate or onions.
Some people are turning to making their own food. Don't blame them with the dog food scare, it has
made us change food as well but you would need to know exactly what you are doing so you don't make
your dog sick instead of helping it.
Training
"House" training
The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as
he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, just before his
nap or night bedtime. My friend has a great idea. They did not want "Yuckies" all over their yard so they
purchased a small kiddie pool and filled it with sand. They then took the puppy to the pool each time to
the washroom and not that is the only place that the dog goes while out in the yard.
The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always over praise the
puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their
beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup
"hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating in
the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once. Do not scold him unless you catch him in the
act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember,
a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will
succeed in training him to go outside not inside.
Lead training
The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead training before you get him, wait a
week or so until he's settled comfortably into his new home before you begin.
You will need a light weight collar. The collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and
have some room for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of his
neck. Put the collar on the puppy so that it goes over his neck from his left to right. Fasten the lead to the
collar and let the puppy lead you around. If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you.
Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for the
puppy so give him lots of praise. As he becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin
to give little tugs and encourage him to follow you rather than you following him. Always keep him on
your left side. Keep his lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one half
hour session. Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise him often when he follows you.
Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks around the neighborhood
but not until his vaccinations are in order as there are nasty viruses out there that could make your puppy
very ill or even kill them. You will probably need to give him several gently tugs the first few times to keep
him with you rather than exploring on his own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again,
do not pull on the lead and drag or choke him. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the
way to control him. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when he does it
right, a quick jerk and release to correct when he doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he
will soon be walking nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him
to stand still and let you hold
his head. Start this training along with the lead
training as early as possible.
Toys
Never ever give your Bulldog a rawhide toy. Even Bulldog puppies can tear a piece off the rawhide and
choke on it.
Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. They also like Nylabone and Gummabone
toys. Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball is too big to lodge in the throat. They like cotton tug
toys.. . The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an adult Bulldog is size. The
puppy gels a fairly small Gummabone, (he adult gets a big one. Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow.
Throw a Nyla or Gummabone etc. away before it gets so small the dog can get the entire piece in its
mouth.
Our dogs love water bottles without the lid. They throw them all over the house. The only problem with this
is that they will sit and wait in front of a person and whine as soon as they see someone with a
water bottle. They think that it is theirs.
Grooming
You need to realize that a bulldog sheds. Your Bulldog should be thoroughly brushed at least
three times a week. Most Bulldogs love to be brushed. Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at
the rear and brush against the hair. After you've brushed the entire dog against the grain, brush it with
the grain. Follow this with a good rub down. This will keep his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During
shedding time, spring and fall, you may need to brush more often, give more frequent rubdowns. The idea
is to remove the dead hair and distribute the natural oils.
Bathing
A Bulldog that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent bathing. Most people
bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it obviously needs a bath.
Where do you bathe a Bulldog? Any place you want to and can! Some Bulldoggers have a big deep sink,
some use the bath tub, some use the kitchen sink, in the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. You
need a place where you can control the dog, where you can easily control the water supply and where you
can rinse the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy, to take the dog outside to
"do his thing" just before you bathe him.
Gather up all the things you will need before you start. You will need: shampoo, any rinses you plan to
use, cotton balls, Q-lips, eye ointment or mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. You will want a mild,
no tears shampoo.
Place a cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet the dog. Wet the dog thoroughly from just behind
the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and
sides. Apply the shampoo starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you
get all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay special attention to his paws (wash between the
toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital area. On a girl, be especially careful to clean
the vulva. Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. Put some shampoo on the
washcloth and wash the dog's face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, around the
nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out. Now rinse. Rinse until you are
sure every bit of the dog, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed and there is no
shampoo any place. If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. You can use a mild
human conditioner on the dog as well...
Dry the dog with towels and then use a hair dryer or let him air dry. Take the cotton balls out of the dog's
ears and carefully clean any wax using a dry Q-Tip or one with a dab of Panalog. Rub Vaseline onto his
nose to help keep ii soft. Keep the dog inside until it is completely dry - about two hours.
Nails
Most Bulldogs need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two weeks. The nails should be
kept as short as possible. You may use dog nail clippers or an electric grinder. Most people use the
clippers, either guillotine or scissors type. Which type you use is up to you, but they should be sharp. When
the blade begins to dull, replace it or buy new clippers - dull blades can be painful to the dog.
Each person seems to have a different way to clip nails. Find the way that works best for you. The
important thing is to be able to control the dog so that you do not hurt it. You can put the dog on the floor
and scratch its tummy, or hold it between your legs -whatever works. Be especially careful not to cut into
the quick. On white nails you can see where the quick begins. On black nails cut just to the curve of the
nail. The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them off. If you use en
electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind into the quick.
My husband and I use a grinder and we find that this works very well....The main thing is to make the
experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into
the quick. If you dog takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, so
again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. This is especially true of black nails which
seem to wear more than the white ones.
Wrinkles
Bulldogs tend to have messy face wrinkles. The older they get, the messier the wrinkles. How often you
clean these wrinkles depends on the dog. Some do very well if you clean the wrinkles a couple of times a
week. Some need it on a daily basis. When you clean the wrinkles, wash his nose and apply a good
rub of Vaseline to keep it soft. It's better to clean more often than you think you need to than not often
enough. You can clean the wrinkles with a soft, damp cloth and then dry. Or you can wash them using the
shampoo you use to bathe the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly. One of the best ways
is to wipe the wrinkles clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Whatever method you use, be sure
to get the deep nose wrinkle clean. You may need to put a soothing ointment in the deep nose wrinkle. If it
is irritated Panalog will help to heal. Penaten Cream will soothe and dry the wrinkle. If the wrinkle is sore
looking Poly Sporin works well. A sizable number of Bulldogs have "tear stains" of varying degrees of color.
If the stain is bad, in addition to cleaning you may want to try to remove the stain.
TEAR STAINS IN THEIR EYES.....
*****A client of mine recently found a product that is a miracle worker for tear stains and I am trying it...It is
a powder that you just sprinkle on their food and works wonders...
It is expensive but it works...The product is called Angel Eyes and you can order it from the United States
http://www.angelseyesonline.com
Also someone told me this works but I have not tried it
* 2 tsp Milk Of Magnesia (white)
* 3 tsp Peroxide (Human Hair Type - 20 volume)
* 1 tsp Corn Starch
Add all the ingredients above and mix well. If you want to make the paste thicker, just add a little more
corn starch but be careful not to use too much that you turn the remedy into a powder. Only make
enough for one application. Clean and dry the stained area and apply this paste to the tear stains
using a clean cotton swab or Q tip and avoid getting it into the dog’s eyes - let dry overnight. Wash off the
paste and condition the area - dry with cloth. Lastly, apply a thin coat of one of the following: Desitin,
Boric Acid Ointment or Bag Balm to prevent a possible rash. Repeat this process every day until the
stains are gone. It is recommended that if the stains don’t disappear by the second application; take a 1
day break before starting treatment again. This is just to give your dog a break. Once the tear stains are
removed you can limit the number of treatments down to once a week depending on how fast the tear
stains may return.
Fleas
The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva and can develop really
serious skin problems so try to keep the flea population to a minimum. Advantage or Revolution is
are two good solutions--ask your vet...
Bedding
The most common is cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. Don't pamper your Bulldog
with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy reducing it to twigs and it really isn't a good thing for
him to eat. The fake sheepskin rugs available from most pet stores and dog catalogues make good
beds as they are soft and wash and dry with ease. The important thing for bedding is that it be easily
washable and provide a soft nesting area for the dog. As long as it meets that requirement, any bedding
will do. I bought the big dog beds with the stuffing in them and when I came home the stuffing was out of
the mand all over my floor so you decide.
Heat Stroke/exhaustion in Bulldogs
Heat Stroke
Every dog is a potential victim of heat exhaustion, but the shorter breathing system of the English Bulldog
is what puts them at such very strong risk for heat stroke. Shorter airway-less possibility of cooling the
air which the dogs draws into its body. Dogs do not sweat. Their only means of reducing built-up body
heat is by panting. The leading cause of heat exhaustion, and its advancing into heat stroke; is leaving a
dog in a hot car. Even on a mild day (75-80 degrees F), the temperature inside a car can raise up to 130
degrees rather quickly. Leaving a window slightly open will not prevent heat build-up. Leaving a dog in
a car on a warm day is a risk to the dog's life.
There are many variables in triggering a dog to experience heat exhaustion; the dog's physical condition,
its age, its coat length, its breed, and its climatization to heat. An older, couch-potato, "snuggle the air
conditioner" dog will have less tolerance to the heat than a young, romp outside all day, adolescent. Both
the very young and very old dogs are among the highest risk categories. All Bullies, no matter how well
they breathe, or how active they are, they could be at risk for Heat Stroke.
Identifying Heat Stroke and Heat Exhaustion
The first signs of heat exhaustion:
a) Excessive panting
b) The skin on the inside of the ears becomes flushed and red.
Heat Exhaustion can progress in to Heat Stroke, as
indicated by :
a) Weakness
b) Staggering
c) Fainting - loss of consciousness
Heat stroke is an emergency situation. If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, you must cool him down
as rapidly as possible. Don't wait for veterinary treatment. Heat Stroke is an Emergency - Treat the
dog NOW!
Emergency Heat Stroke Treatment
DO NOT try to force your dog to drink. His swelling airways can cause any liquid he takes in to be
regurgitated and possibly aspirated into his lungs. Hose the dog down with cool water - not cold.
Apply an ice pack to the dog's head, and soaked towels or any other form of fabric to their body.
If at all possible, get him into a tub of cool water --again, cool - not cold! However, in an extreme
emergency if cold is all there is, use it. If none of this is working, a cool water enema can help to cool the
dog internally. Be careful not to induce too rapidly, or with water cooler than a few degrees below body
temp, or you can put your dog into serious shock. As your dog is panting, his airways are swelling,
causing him to pant harder yet again. You need to break this cycle. Children's allergy treatment
Benadryl can be administered by mouth from a dropper. Consult your vet in advance, or by phone is
necessary, for exact dosage. Better still is to obtain a supply of injectible Benadryl to keep on hand.
Do not stop treatment until your dog's body temperature is approaching normal.
As soon as the dog's internal temperature has stabilized at a near normal level transport the dog to
your vet. Heat stroke can leave permanent damage.
Many dogs will play until they drop. You must supervise the games, and determine when it is time
to stop. During hot weather limit your dog's time outside. Be sure that there is a shaded area for your
dog to rest in and that your dog has a constant supply of clean water.
Never, EVER underestimate your dog's susceptibility to heat stroke. Limit their exposure to temperatures
which you might personally find only mildly hot, be conscious of your dog's proximity to hot pavement,
NEVER leave your Bully in a locked car in even warm weather, and always allow them lots of access to
fresh water, shade, and cool areas to escape from heat. Be alert, and be prepared with the things you
need to save your dog's life.
A checklist for summer living with English Bulldogs
- children's liquid benadryl
- bottled water
- clean enema bag
- clean towels to soak in water
- cooling pads &/or cool coats (any good pet supply store will sell these
- access to shade
- your vet's phone number, and the number of the nearest 24 hour emergency vet
Most of all, always make sure your dog has access to a cool shaded area, and NEVER leave them in the
car, even in weather which is only fairly warm. English Bulldogs can over heat in an instant
Elongated Soft Palate
One of the most common forms of airway obstruction in Brachycephalic breeds is due to an elongated soft
palate. The soft palate is an extension of the hard palate which forms the roof of the mouth. The
purpose of the soft palate is to serve as a mobile flap preventing food and water from entering the nasal
passages during swallowing. A soft palate that is elongated will either hang in front of the airway or will
fall into the larynx during inhalation.
Dogs affected by chronic airway obstruction (CAO) tend to breathe rather noisily when excited. Mouth
breathing, snoring and snorting are characteristics of this condition. These characteristics become even
more pronounced when the dog is hot or during periods of exercise. The dogs frequently gag in an
attempt to clear their airway and occasionally bring up foam and saliva while eating or drinking. The
harder the dog breathes, the greater the swelling and elongation of the soft palate. Most often an
elongated soft palate is difficult to positively confirm other than while the dog is under general anesthesia,
surgical correction is usually done at the same time.
Stenotic Nares
Stenotic Nares (constricted nostrils) occurs exclusively in brachycephalic dogs. This birth defect
can not be overemphasized. The cartilages that help to shape the nostrils are too soft. As the pup
breathes in the nostril collapses restricting or shutting off the air flow. In severe cases the pup's chest
becomes flattened. There is a nasal discharge that can either appear as watery or foamy. Breathing is
labored and accompanied by snorting. When excited or active they tend to breathe through their mouths.
This excess labouring in order to bring oxygen to the lungs puts additional stress on their systems, and
with reduced air flow they tend not to thrive. These dog should be treated surgically as soon as possible.
Treatment normally consists of removing a portion of the nasal cartilage to enlarge the nostril openings.
Also do not let a vet with an overactive wish to treat this condition talk you into doing this unnecessarily.
Hot Spots
A "Hot Spot" is an area of bacterial skin infection that increases through self-mutilation by the dog. An
area of skin is irritated (flea bite, allergy or other irritant), the dog scratches or chews the area enlarging
the opening, the area becomes infected, thus begins the cycle. Hot spots are warm, swollen, painful
patches of skin that exude pus and serum, and tend to give off a foul odour. These areas can appear
suddenly, they tend to enlarge rapidly (especially in hot humid weather) and can reach a size of several
inches in diameter. Hair loss is rapid. Between the dog chewing or clawing the coat out and bacterial
spread the progress can be significant within a matter of hours. Hot spots most often appear on the neck,
ears, chest, rump, flanks, and back (areas of access to clawing or chewing).
Treat by clipping all remaining hair away from the infected area. This will allow air to dry the area and
promote healing. Gently cleanse the area with a surgical soap (pHisoHex, Oxydex, or Betadine).
Apply topical antibiotic-steroid cream such as Panalog to aid in reducing irritation and promote
healing. Dependent upon the extent of the hot spot the dog may need oral antibiotics and steroids as
well. The dog must be restrained from doing further damage to this area, this may necessitate the use of
an Elizabethan collar.
To end the cycle the underlying cause must be determined. In the event of fleas - the fleas must be
removed. In the event of allergies the irritant must be determined and eliminated to prevent hot spots from
occurring elsewhere. A word of warning - do NOT treat hot spots with tea tree oil! Tea Tree oil has been
known to cause neurological damage in canines and humans when applied in the undiluted form.
Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis is known by many names throughout the dog world. Among these names are:
canine atopic dermatitis, canine inhalant dermatitis, allergic inhalant dermatitis, atopic disease, and
inhalant allergy. This condition is a commonly occurring, inherited, hypersensitivity to pollens or
other environmental allergens, as a result of a disorder of the immune system.
The primary clinical indication is itching. This itching can take one or multiple forms, and is most often
exhibited by licking or chewing of the feet, and/or the groin area; rubbing and scratching the face, ears,
and front torso; rubbing sides or buttocks on furniture or any available object; and frequent periods of "sit
and spin" sessions. Additionally, affected dogs can display reversed sneezing, coat discoloration, crusty,
reddened eyes, reddening of the skin, papules, and hair loss.
This condition can vary greatly from region to region. Since the most common allergies are: dander,
pollens of grasses, weeds, and trees; dust and molds. The irritants can be seasonal. Found in both
males and females, this condition has a higher incidence in females. The most common age of
onset is between one and three years of age. It is alarmingly common in English Bulldogs, and its
origins are a mystery at this time. It has been theorized that hypothyroidism is at root of this
disorder, but thyroid testing of the dogs which we have had with this condition have been negative.
Perhaps there is some other, underlying immune suppression at work which are not yet equipped to
pin point or diagnose.
Idealistically, avoidance of the irritating substance would present the most desirable long-term means of
treatment. This can be achieved in some cases, but in most this is not a practical solution. Medically,
there are numerous treatments such as glucocorticoids and/or antihistamines. In some cases
hypo-sensitization is the best means of treatment. Do not put your English Bulldog on long term steroid
treatments, it could have devastating affects on the health of your dog.
Stinky Ears- or Otitis Externa
One thing I can promise you with a bully is that someday you are going to end up with a stinky or
infected ear. I am not sure why this happens but it does. This can be caused by parasites(ear Mites),
foreign bodies(dust and dirt) or direct trauma to the ear. If your dogs ear is red, irritated and swollen
looking and/or the dog is constantly shaking it’s head or scratching it‘s ear, you probably have an ear
problem. Your dog can have a change in attitude or suffer hearing loss if the infection is bad enough.
Excessive wrinkles tend to trap moisture and can inhibit draining causing a build up of bacteria,
excessive wax building which can eventually lead to infection.
Prevention is the best way to go if you can. I have found that a solution with half cider vinegar and half
rubbing alcohol has worked wonders to break down the PH in the ear and help to keep it clean. Rub on
with a cotton swab and make sure that you dry the dog’s ears very well afterwards. Also make sure that
the dogs ears are dried after giving it a bath
Treatment and Prevention
a) The use of an external ear canal cleanser. This makes the environment less favourable for bacteria
and yeasts to grow and often reduces inflammation.
b) A drying agent to reduce the amount of moisture in the canal.
c) Topical anti-inflammatory and anti bacterial treatment. This might be in the form of a liquid or
ointment that is placed directly into the ear canal and gently massaged so as to ensure that the deeper
areas are adequately medicated.
d) Topical antiparasitic or antifungal medications. May be used in cases of ear mite infestation or
ringworm infection (fungus).
e) Systemic treatment. This includes the use of injectable or oral medications e.g. cortisone and
antibiotics. These drugs often help to reduce the pain and inflammation rapidly, thereby improving the
comfort of the pet and allowing the owner to properly apply the topical medications.
f) Surgery. In advanced severe cases of otitis externa, surgery may be required to correct defects
in conformation of the ear canal and also to improve drainage and ventilation. As with all medical
problems, prevention is better than cure. Take the opportunity during your pet's next physical examination
to discuss with your veterinarian how and when to clean your dogs ears. If you notice an inflamed ear or a
bad odor, a visit to your veterinarian may save you and your pet a lot of aggravation and discomfort. Don't
allow "stinky ear syndrome" to become a permanent part of your dogs life!
Heartworm Disease
Does your dog cough frequently? Has he lost some weight recently? Just doesn't want to go running after
that tennis ball anymore? If so, he could have heartworm disease! Dirofilariasis or heartworm is a serious
and potentially fatal illness spread by mosquitoes. When a mosquito bites a dog to take a blood meal, it
may inject a number of tiny larvae into the animal's skin. Over a period of months, these larvae migrate
into the blood stream and gradually make their way to the heart and the adjacent arteries. Here they begin
to grow and can often reach lengths of twelve to eighteen inches! Sometimes dogs will have tens or even
hundreds of worms, all more than a foot long, clogging up the chambers of the heart.
At this stage, the blood cannot flow properly through the heart and the dog starts to show the typical signs
of congestive heart failure. To make things worse, the female worms produce thousands of offspring, which
can be found swimming in almost every drop of blood
in the dog's body. When the next mosquito bites the unfortunate animal, it will suck up some of these
juveniles and then fly off to find it's next victim...Make sure you put your Bulldog on a heartworm
preventative….
BULLDOGS AND CHILDREN
You must supervise your children with a baby bulldog. A bulldog can be rough and if a child hurts them,
they could learn to bite. Also a bully baby could be dropped and seriously injured--- there is nothing
worse than watching people allowing their children to pull on a dogs ears, crawl all over them etc... so use
your common sense. If you can't control your children, a dog is not for you.....
Teeth--Make sure that you take care of your dog's teeth. You can get them cleaned at the vet, brush your
dog's teeth daily or feed them hard bones to help. It is very important to their overall health.
Most important---Love your bulldog and treat him well and you will have many happy years with your best
friend.
Puppies are $2500 on spay/neuter contract. All puppies come ckc registered, vet inspected, first shots, microchip and a
2 year health contract. They also come with a six week free limited trial of petplan insurance and a lifetime of support....
2 year health contract. They also come with a six week free limited trial of petplan insurance and a lifetime of support....
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Look at my planned litters to see what is coming up.........
Raine and Ben's new litter born October 19/08
Males available. Below are the available boys.....
Males available. Below are the available boys.....
Available Male
Rebel
Rebel
Puddin's litter born October 29/08
2 boys and 2 girls
2 boys and 2 girls
Available Male
Rocky
Rocky
This guy is beautiful, lot's of wrinkles and a big, fat,
head. He already has a big rope over his nose and
large, expressive eyes..He is looking for a family to
love him...............
head. He already has a big rope over his nose and
large, expressive eyes..He is looking for a family to
love him...............
Rebel is the trouble maker of the
group. He likes to be the first to eat
and pushes his way into the bowl.
He antagonizes his siblings and
loves to play fight....
group. He likes to be the first to eat
and pushes his way into the bowl.
He antagonizes his siblings and
loves to play fight....