TAKING HOME YOUR NEW ENGLISH
BULLDOG PUPPY-PAGE 2
2.Preventing mistakes is easier than curing wrongs
3.Make absolutely sure your dog understand what you want of him.
4.Praise the attempt
5.Keep your dog's attention
6.Never train when tired or ill tempered
7.Take each exercise by sections then fit them together
8.Use patience and perserverance
9.Each dog is different...know yours and adapt your training to suit him
10.Repetition helps learning but watch out for boredom

Train in short spurts of 5 minutes, then follow with a game and reward (natural liver treats) and a rest in bed. Puppies have very short
attention spans. Your tone of voice is very important so change it to suit the situation. If your puppy withdraws from any situation, do not
baby him. It should be ignored. Praise him only when he goes forth and deals with the world in a positive way. Encourage confidence not
timidity. Remember THINK BIGGER when he is still cute and cuddly. Do not encourage him to do things as a small puppy that you will not
want to live with when he is huge. Help him to grow up to be a mannerly dog, one that you will be proud of and not an undisciplined
monster. If you show him who the Boss is when he is young you won't have to fight him when he is fully grown. In order to love you he
must respect you so be firm. He really does want you to be the Pack Leader and to please you! Praise and reward good behaviour.

If you have a dog that is self-confident, secure and knows he can trust you, you can ask him to do certain things. Take the time to explore
your puppies personality. We like to handle the puppies constantly, beginning immediately to turn them gently on their backs and rub their
tummies. To lie on one's back is to be utterly defencseless and by making this routine exercise a pleasurable one from the beginning,
you set in motion a bond that will become absolute trust. When you feed the puppy, make a clucking noise and say(Puppy's name)-come
and withing a few days this call will bring him instantly and eagerly to you. Keep a few kibbles of his dry puppy food or liver bites in your
pocket, call the puppy to you and reward him with a treat. Eventually you can praise lavishly in place of food and the puppy will still come
when called. Put a harness around the puppy for brief periods until he becomes accustomed to it.

Between 7 and 12 weeks the real training begins. The period establishes a time for the puppy when he is removed from the dominance
of his mother and the interaction with his brothers and sisters and taken off into the world to be your very special dog.

Snap a lead on the harness and the puppy will usually trot right along with you but not always. Comfort the puppy with your clucking noise
and because that sound has always meant “on your feet-good things are coming”, the puppy will be happy and willing to follow you. Once
in a while you will run into a puppy that is not going to co-operate and sits down solidly, refusing to budge. Let him sit-he'll soon be bored
with that! When he moves, go right along with him. Soon enough he will be going along with you. Introduce the sit, the stand and the say...
always briefly without force. If he is already doing it, tell him what he is doing. When the puppy is headed for one of us anyways, we
introduce the “come” again with no forcing, no draggina dn no corrections-just suggestions about what the puppy was about to do
anyway, always with lots of praise.

At this point you will get the feeling that the baby is training you. If all this sounds like we're suggestions your'e creating a spoiled puppy
who gets praised for doing exactly what he wants to do anyway...let us correct that impression. We do believe in discipline! An
undisciplined dog isnot a secure dog because he does not know what you want and constantly has to face your displeasure. Morever, an
undisciplined dog is a danger to himself and others.

There are several stern corrections that we do to impress upon puppies and there is no nonsense about it. One of these lessons is
regarding a running car. Let the puppy wander in front of a car whose motor is running. When the puppy gets to the critical spot, a loud
blast on the horn is usually enough to convince them to avoid cars whose motors are running. If you have a pool attempt to teach them
how to swim and how to find the steps of the pool. Thse lessons will literally save their life but be aware****Bulldogs often can not swim
and you will need to ensure that they can't get near your pool without a lifejacket on.****


The word NO is completely eliminated from teaching until the dog is older and trained. “No” is reserved for specific crimes like chewing
the couch, puddles on the rug, or biting ankles. If the puppy is wriggling and refusing to stand, keep repeating the stand command telling
him what you want,, not that he's not doing what you want.

The gnawing and biting that reaches a peak in the seven or eight week old puppy can usually be stopped quickly by returning the
pressure on the jaw when the puppy takes your hand in his mouth. The puppy will only be interested in spitting it out. If you hand on for
another few seconds, he'll be delighted to get you out of his mouth and will not be so apt to chew on you again. He must learn that is is
unacceptable to chew on people!!!!!

Once the puppy is going well on the lead, he/she should be exposed to different kinds of terrain, flapping canvas, lawn mowers and
bicycles. He learns to go over small obstacles, go around others, in and out doors and, up and down stairs. In the house he meets the
vacuum cleaner, noisy pots and pans and assorted household confusions. Do not force him...just carry about your business and praise
his bravery when he investigates new things.

By this time you should have your puppy lying happily and quietly on their back for a tummy rub and you are ready to tackle...Nails and
Grooming.


The first thing to keep in mind is that crates are not cages. Crates are however:

1.A valuable aid in housebreaking. Most dogs have an aversion to soiling in their sleeping quarters,
so confine your pup to his crate at night and take him directly to his toilet area first thing in the
morning. You can house break your pup more quickly and easily using the close confinements of a
crate. ***Remember it is easiest to do things right the first time than it is to break bad habits later.***
2.A safe and secure spot when you 're not around. You can leave him home in the house and be
safe.
***Remember to never leave a colour on your dog while in the crate or anytime that they are
unattended. It can quickly become a noose around their neck***
3.It is beneficial to take your crate when travelling with your pet to a new environment. It will still have
it's familiar sleeping quarters which can help with the transition. It can also afford him some privacy
and quiet time away from prying children.
4.A special place to call it's own. A dog needs a bed to call his own. This satisfies his den instinct. If
the door is left open, he will often wander in and lie down.


It is important to use---BUT NOT ABUSE-the crate. The dog should not be crated for extended
periods of time, such as all day long!!! The dog must be well exercised both before and after crating
and given lots of personal attention.

Crates come in a number of styles and materials. The one that I like the best is the wire crate. The
dog can still see out and receives lots of ventilation. These can also be folded flat for storage. You
can put a blanket over top of part of it if more privacy is needed. Remember to clean your crate often
and disinfect. I also love an Xpen which aslo works wonderful with the crate inside. You can put
puppy pads out on the floor and leave the crate door open. Your puppy soon learns to come out and
do its business on the puppy pads. Also when they are older you put the big blankets in there and
when you are gone they are safe, snug but still have lots of room.

Do not purchase a small crate. A crate should always be large enough to permit a full grown dog to
stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on top. You
will only be sorry later if you buy a crate that is too small. We use the big, cedar blankets once they
are trained and these avoid sores and unsightly callouses. We cover the inside with a big garbage
bag so that we only have to wash the cover and the inside does not become stinky, stained or soiled.

**When you travel purchase a doggy seat belt from Pet Value. The best investment you will ever
make. These not only keep your dog safe but it keeps the whole family safe. If in an accident an
unsecured dog will fly like a missile and if it hits you or one of your children it could possibly kill you
and it most certainly will kill your pet****
later behaviour. All dogs, regardless of breed or mix, are affected in their psychological growth by their environment. Critical periods apply
to all dogs, but not necessarily in the same degree. Understanding these critical periods will help you to understand your dogs behaviour
and to know how to handle both him and yourself during certain special times.

Birth to Seven weeks(0 to 49 days)
In order to maximize the mental and psychological development of a puppy, it is absolutely essential that he remain in the next with his
mother lettermates until seven weeks of age. It is during this time that puppies learn that they are dogs. While playing, they practice
different body postures-learning what they mean and the effects they have on their brothers and sisteres and tehir mother. They learfn what
it feels like to bite and be bitten and what barking sound like. Such activity tempers their own barking and biting.

Puppies are disciplined by mom in a way they clearly understand. They learn to be submissive to her leadership, which teaches them to
accept discipline. .If a pup has not learned to accept leadership in its early dog to dog interactions it's training will be much more difficult.
Puppies that leave the next too early tend to be nervous, prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are more
aggressive with other dogs. In general, a puppy taken away to new home before seven weeks will not realize it's full potential as a dog and
companion.

Socialization period(7-12 weeks)
The best time to bring a puppy into it's new home is during the socialization period. At this time he should be introduced to as many things
as possible that will play a role in his future life. For example, if you want him to interact peacfully with farm animals or a cat, it is at this age
that he should meet them in a positive, non threatening manner. If the breeder has not already introduced him to sounds like the vacuum
cleaner, engine noises, city traffic etc. it is during this period that you should do so. Children, men with beards, women in floppy hats and
senior citizens, while all people to us, appear differently to a dog and he should meed as many different ages and types of people as
possible.

At seven weeks of age, a puppy's brain has the waves of an adult dog. His capacity for cencentration, however, is not yet adult and thus his
attention span is quite short. Yet, the puppy can learn!!!!
Not only can a young puppy learn, he will learn, whether he is taught or not. It is at this age that the most rapid learning occurs. Everything
the puppy comes in contact with is making a lasint impression on him as it never will again. Things learned at this age are learned
permanently. This is important to think about when you want to hold your puppy on your lap while you watch TV. Remember the puppy will
grow up and do you want a 50 pound dog sitting on your lap. This is the best way to begin your pups traing in a positive, non-punitive
manner, taking into account his physical limitations and short attention span. The lessons taught at this age in a non-punitive manner are
proven very successful and effective.

Fear Imprint Period(8-10 weeks)
During this period any traumatic, painful or frightening experience with have a more lasting impact on your puppy than if it occurred at any
other time. Fors instance, a trip to the veterininarian, if unpleasant, could forever make your dog apprehensive about going to the vet. To
avoid this, take along a toy to play along with loads of petting and praise after completing the examination.

Seniority Classification Period(12-16 weeks)
This is the peroid also known as the “Age of Cutting”-cutting teeth and cutting apron strings. It is at this age that your pup will begin testing
to see who is the pack leader is going to be. From 12 weeks on, if your puppy makes an attempt to bite you, even in play, or bites the leash
when you are walking or training, it is usually an attmept to dominate. Biting behaviour should be completely and absolutely discourage
from 13 weeks on.

Serious training, if not already started should begin now. It will establish, in a manner easy for the pup to understand, that you are the pack
leader. When you assume responsibilty for having a dog, you assume the responsibility for training and for being pack leader. Pack
Leadership is something you will learn through training-through specific exercises designed to teach your dog that you are in charge.

The critical periods above are generally the same, regardless of breed or size of dog. The ages of the next critical stages may vary
depending upon the size of the dog. In general smaller dogs tend to expericence  these periods earlier than large dogs.

Flight Instinct Period(4-8 months)
This is the age when your pouppy will truly test his wings. He will venture off on his own and turn completely deaf when you call him. If this
occurs during training, the puppies response to your “come”
command will be to take off in the opposite direction. Now you know why, and you can say to yourself “Aha! Flight Instinct!”

The flight instinct period generally lasts anywhere from several weeks to months. How you handle your dog at this time willmean the
difference between a dog that ignores your call and the one who responds readily. REMEMBER, until you are absolutely sure of your dog
and his training, keep him on a leash.
Putting him in a position where he can run away from you will only serve to ingrain this undesirable behaviour.

Second Fear Imprint Period(6-14 months)
This fear period is not as well defined as the first one which occurs between 8-10 weeks. It is marked by your now adolescent dog's
reluctance to approach something new or his sudden fear of something familiar. To get through this period, BE PATIEND, BE KIND. Don't
force your puppy to do something frightening to him and above all continue training so that he is being given leadership in a familiear
reassuring manner.

Maturity(1-4 years)
This critical period is often marked by an increase in aggression and a renewed testing of your leadership. The increased aggression is
not necessarily negative. Often it means that a previously over-friendly dog now becomes a good watch dog and barks when people come
to the door. It may also mean, however, that Spot and Fido, who used to be great friends are now fighting every time they see each other.

If, at maturity, your dog tries to test your leadership, handle him firmly and continue training. Train your dog regularly thoughout this testing
period. Praising for the proper response. If you feel they are too much to handle, you may want to see professional help. You should be
prepared for the psychological changes that will occur in your dog so that you understand and can help them and yourself get through this
period.